Landed at midday on Saturday, 22nd December 2001. We only had hand luggage so we cleared customs quickly. At immigration, the officer asks us when we're going back. "Boxing Day", I reply. "Oh the 26th right? Say that to most Americans and they wouldn't understand - we don't have it here. Know why's it called that?". "Ah", I said, "there are two main reasons: the first is that the servants of aristocracy celebrated their Christmas on the 26th because they were looking after the guests at the house. The master of the house would give presents to the servents to thank them for their work over the previous year. The second explanation is that the alms boxes for the poor were opened after the Church Services on Chrismas Day and the money distributed to the poor and needy. This was reputedly started by Queen Victoria during her reign. Is there anything else you'd like to know about the history of Britain or it's constitution?"
Of course, I didn't actually say that - I had no idea why it's called Boxing Day but it's amazing what an Internet Search Engine can turn up isn't it? Anyway, back to the story: straight into a Yellow Cab into Manhattan. The driver must have had a lead foot the way we were thrown about. Rule 1: never complain to a NYC Cab driver. Interestingly, in the cab it gives a "Passengers Charter", listing what you can expect from a NYC cabbie. One item is "should know all the streets in Manhattan and the major routes in the other burroughs". Not quite "The Knowledge" is it? Checked into the hotel and the room would not be available until 3PM so we deposited our bags with the "Bell Captain". That's Left Luggage to you and me. Straight out into the Big Apple. It was a beautiful clear, crisp day with just a hint of the biting, cold winter that can be a feature of New York. This was the weather pattern for the whole trip. It's lovely weather to walk around in.
Christmas Eve
Decide to go to Liberty and Ellis Islands in the morning and take the bus to Battery Park. It stops a few block shorts and the driver indicates the correct direction to continue on foot. The smell hit us first. We wondered what it was - like a building site or broken earth. Ground Zero. We did not intend to go anywhere near but it was such a huge area that it was unavoidable. The street were packed with people paying their respects and the walls around the site covered with messages, American Flags and, most poignant of all, photos of people still 'missing'. Some folks were praying, others weeping and others still writing messages of support on any free space they could. It was not macabre or morbid - just shocked people trying to come to terms with the events in their own way.
The Ferry Trip to Liberty Island required a 2 hour wait in a queue so we opted for the tour of the bay instead since there was no queue and the Statue itself is still closed to the public. The guide was very informative and it was good way to see many downtown sights including the Brooklyn Bridge. The Statue of Liberty needs no introduction, of course, but is in fact a shell a mere 2mm thick. The highest you can go (if it's open) is the crown. Ellis Island was the processing centre for immigration until 1954 and the first place many immigrants saw on landing in the USA. Those admitted called it the 'Island of Dreams' for others it was the 'Island of Tears'.
We made our way uptown and found ourselves in China Town. Fantastic - it reminded me of being in Hong Kong. We stopped for something to eat and an American Lady insisted that we talk to her friend, "she's from England too". We waited politely for the (usually) akward conversation that ensues as they explain which part of the UK they are from. "Hi", the lady said, "I'm from a little place near Manchester called Horwich - do you know it?". Just a bit - it's about 5 miles away! I have no idea what the restaurant was called only that it was good.
On the way back to the hotel I see signs tied to lampposts ordering 'No Parking' - sometimes this means that the road is to be closed for filming a TV series or whatever, so I enquire of a nearby Traffic Cop. The (Winter) Olympic Flame is coming through tonight and will spend the holiday at the Rockerfeller Plaza before continuning it's journey to Salt Lake City. OK, we'll have a butcher's at that. It was packed at the Plaza and the torch is remarkably small - maybe a metre long. The last 100 yards were run by (Sir) Rudy Guiliani - the Mayor of New York and (now) Time Magazine 'Man of the Year 2001'. BTW, to carry the flame you have to be either a notable public official (e.g. the Mayor) or are invited to carry it by being recommended by the community. There is not 'one' torch but (in this case) 11,500 (really) and the carrier can buy 'his' torch as a souvenir for $350.
We dined in the hotel that night since, so far, we had seen little of it with all our galavanting. The Waldorf Astoria lives up to it's name as a fantastic hotel. What with the Bell Captain (luggage) and the Bar Captain (Barman) I just had to call the waiter Plate Captain. By the way, there was not a Waldorf Salad anywhere to be seen on the menu. In Sir Harry's Bar Wendy asks if the (small) cocktail menu is the complete list. The waitress looks affronted and tells us they can do anything, this is after all the Waldorf Astoria. Wendy was gagging for a Snowball and duly orders one. We hear the waitress call, "Sam, you know how to make a snowball?". A moment later she was back, "the bartender's not quite certain he has all of the ingredients! Can you remind him what they are?". "Certainly, which one's has he got so far?", I asked playing along, "Well, none. He doesn't know how to make one!".
Christmas Day
Wendy opens her Champagne (an expensive habit she's picked up in France) and the day begins. She opens the one (small) present she has brought with her. Outside we start with a Horse and Carriage ride around Central Park. The driver was Irish and pointed out various landmarks and locations as we went. It was really enjoyable.
We'd decided to go to the famous Russian Tea Rooms for Christmas Lunch and I knew it was near Central Park and Columbus Circle but couldn't quite find it - so I asked a Traffic Cop. He didn't know either and directed me to a 'real' cop. "I ain't done nothin! I'm not trying to kill anyone! I'm innocent!", cried the man. "Excuse me", I said in my best British accent (I was tempted to try my Alan Partridge impression but it didn't seem quite the right moment), "can you tell me the way to the Russian Tea Rooms?". "West 57th Street opposite Carnegie Hall.", said the cop, "Now keep quiet and get in the car". Eh? Ah, it's not often you get a chance to ask for directions in the middle of an arrest is it? The cop turns to Wendy and says, "Christmas ain't no day to spend in the cells". Well, quite.
The directions were perfect and off we went to Chrismas Lunch. It's hard to find turkey here, presumably it more common a month earlier for Thanksgiving, so Wendy had Lamb and I had Venison. I did get a decent cup of Earl Grey Tea though - a miracle in the USA, where first you have to ask for hot tea with milk. What you get is a cup of hot water and a tea bag on the side. The picture on the right is of St. Bartholomew's Church, where Wendy went to the Midnight Service on Christmas Eve - it was also the view out of our hotel window.
We ambled down Broadway, replete after our splendid lunch, then towards the Empire State Building. Up we went to see Manhattan in all its nighttime glory and on towards Times Square, where we had booked seats at the Marquis Theatre to see "A Chrismas Carol" - a one-man show by and starring Patrick Stewart. You may know him better as Jean-Luc Picard in "Star Trek: The Next Generation". Most enjoyable and a perfect end to the day. We walked back along Park Avenue to the hotel.
Boxing Day
Did I tell you where Boxing Day came from? Oh, yes. Right, well, it's "shop till you drop" time here as all the stores are open since it's a normal working day and there are major bargains to be had with up to 70% off most items especially designer clothes. "Saks Fifth Avenue" is literally around the corner from the hotel so it's on there first and up to the 10th floor to the "Big Girls" shop. Wendy spots a designer suede jacket reduced from $500 to $160. Still, being a woman, she can't buy it yet 'cos she hasn't been round the other stores to compare and contrast.
Let's just pause here to consider you, the reader. Now, I reckon most ladies are saying to themselves "that's right, go for it Wends" and most blokes "Jesus, Pete's got another 3 hours of this!". Go on, tell me I'm wrong!. Sorry, personal outburst there. I was suffering from Retail Fatigue at the end.
Anyway, we go to Macy's and others and find a list of three coats/jackets that Wendy likes but can't make up her mind. There's only one thing to do: lunch. Over the meal she decides on the Saks jacket and sets of full speed ahead towards "Designer Nirvana". She is "on a mission" - straight up to the top floor and I sit down whilst she goes through the ritual of trying it on, looking at it from varous angles ("Does my bum look big in this?". Yes - well, there no point saying anything else is there - if I said "No" the next question would be "Are you just saying that?"). She potters off - ten minutes later she comes back with a face like she's chewing a wasp. "What's wrong?", I ask, tentatively. "I put the jacket back on the rack to try some other stuff and that woman's got it". She points to a lady whom I can only describe as "The Victim". We hang around for 10 minutes whilst this lady goes through the ritual of trying it on, etc. "For God's sake", Wendy seeths, "how long does it take to decide whether she wants it". Hmmm, I wonder where I've heard that before? I'm afraid there is not a happy ending to this shopping trip it consists of one word: jacketless.
Back to the hotel to pick up the bags and off to the airport. The flight is not until 6:30PM and we get there about 4:15. The queue to check-in is huge, I walk down the length of it and follow it round the corner and it's the same length after the bend. Drastic action is required. "Is there a check-in for hand luggage only", I ask the lady, "No", she replies you must join the queue". "What!", I explode, "that's ridiculous". She thinks for a moment, agrees and sends us to a desk a few feet away. We're checked in within five minutes of arrival at the airport. Sometimes it pays to complain. Of we go into the BA lounge, at 6:15 they call the flight and we go down to the departure gate - it's not very busy. OK the flight won't be full then. We're sitting there until 6:25 (the flight goes at 6:30) and I hear someone on the telephone saying something that suspiciously sounds like "Daly". "Did you say Daly?", I enquired, "Yes, we're about to offload you as a no-show. Didn't you hear the calls?". "Yes, there was one in the lounge that's why we're here now. That way is it?", I say firmly to avoid the argument. Guess what? We were at the back of the plane and, as the last ones on, had to do the "Walk of Shame" - the plane was chocker! Oh well.
So that's it - our trip to NYC. We had a fabulous time and wish you a (belated) Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
